When I sat down to write this article, so many experiences and memories flooded me, that it felt overwhelming. It was hard to know where to even start. This wasn’t just a workshop, it was an exercise of vulnerability and connection.
I had the honor of visiting Castello di Tassara in the fall of 2023 as part of a Food Masterclass photography workshop led by Solli Kanani, a Paris-based, award-winning photographer and Nikon Europe Ambassador. I met Solli via another photography retreat in Møn, Denmark earlier that summer, and immediately felt a connection to her creative spirit. Solli is a talented artist, and passionate image-maker who emanates a quiet softness and kindness that feels rare in the world. Her stunning images of food drew me in via her Instagram page, and when she announced her retreat that Fall, I immediately began planning a way to attend it.
Traveling alone to Italy felt scary and intimidating. I have traveled alone in foreign countries before, but never a place where I didn’t speak the language. I had been warned of dishonest taxi cabs and pickpockets, and I was guarded and on alert. On some bad days of my two-week journey, I cursed the country, with its seatless squatting toilets, miscommunications, and backwards bureaucracy. Some of my hotels were disasters, with no internet connection, and rusty water coming from pipes. I lost a credit card, and had to find a way to contact my bank from overseas quickly. The language barrier was frustrating, and I found myself feeling like the typical ignorant American, with my lack of experience and knowledge, and my expectation of modern creature comforts. Every other day though, I met some absolutely wonderful strangers, and their kindness melted my heart. There was the kind taxi driver who let me pour my heart out to him, and who made sure I made it to the front door of my hotel, the front desk worker, who let me check in early so that I could rest from a long day of traveling, and the beaming market stall owners, who generously allowed me to photograph them.
We met as a group of four at the train station, where a driver was waiting to take us on the two hour journey. As we neared our destination, a thick fog coated the rolling hills around.
At our destination, greeted by Solli and her sister, we unloaded our bags upon arrival in the late afternoon, the heavy and grey swirling mist around us, giving the castle a sort of mysterious and almost eerie quality. After introductions and a tour of the castle we began our night in front of the large stone fireplace, warm with a crackling fire. Soothed with glasses of wine, we shared our backgrounds, and why we were there. I found myself pouring my heart out about my love for photography and a deep need to travel. The pandemic had taught me so much about myself, and the years of lockdown and fear had created a burning desire in me to experience the world.
The morning of our first day, the fog lifted, revealing a stunning soft golden landscape around us. Waking up to the sound of church bells ringing, I took my coffee into the courtyard to explore, wandering inside to find more of the beautiful corners of this stunning home. What seemed like endless families of cats wandered the property, and every now and then, they managed to sneak into the house, sleeping on the plush couches, and chasing one another.
The heart of Caterina Benello, owner and matron of the castle, shown through. Family photos covered surfaces of beautifully carved tables, and thick books documenting her extensive world travels with them covered the enormous coffee table. There were African safaris and long hikes on enormous mountain peaks, desert plateaus, and stories of exploration and adventure. As we spoke more, I learned about her history as a doctor-turned-veterinarian with a love of horses and other animals. Her passion for design and deep-rooted Italian hospitality breathed life into every corner.
Beyond the technical and classroom aspects of photography, this gathering was about our group’s shared passion for storytelling through images. Conversations stretched late into the night over glasses of Italian wine, as we exchanged experiences, challenges, and aspirations. Our camaraderie of like-minded creatives, gathered in such an inspiring place, was nothing short of magical, and each of us opened up in new ways surrounding the heavy wooden table in front of the wood burning stove, guided by the delicious food, wine, and warmth. Our hired chef, Vanja Zaric, prepared meals that celebrated seasonal ingredients and local flavors such as homemade pasta, rustic vegetables in rich sauces, and delicate desserts.
We enjoyed several styled photograph sessions, including an incredible styling session, hosted by Barbara Bocedi, owner and curator of Cucuti, a charming Italian B&B located on the Piacenza Hills, in Valtidone, Italy. Her expertise in styling a table to create a scene of warmth and “home” created the perfect scene beneath the portico attached to the covered barn. Amid the gorgeous ceramics, fruit and vegetables, and candles, we watched as she created a masterpiece for the senses.
Later, in a converted barn in the glow of a wood burning stove, our group followed along as Solli taught us the art of workflow through editing and culling, incorporating tone, color, Lightroom enhancements, vignetting, and using gradient to highlight our focus.
On our last morning together, I packed my camera and took one last look at the warm hues painting the landscape in the morning sunlight, I knew this experience was something special and to be cherished. In the window, a cat sat, curled tightly on a desktop, surrounded by fried flowers. Each of us sat wistfully, talking about our experience, wishing it would last just a little bit longer.
